Exploring Varosha: the Ghost Town in Northern Cyprus

Visiting ghost towns can be a mind blowing experience, and Varosha, located in Northern Cyprus, is not an exception. A half of a century ago, Varosha used to be a famous resort town frequented by celebrities, and now it stunning beaches and luxurious hotels are abandoned, lying in ruins. As we entered this ghost town, we were impressed by the haunting beauty of its neglected streets and the rich history that lay behind them.

A Brief History of Varosha

Varosha became one of Cyprus's top tourist destinations in the middle of the 20th century. With its pristine beaches and upscale hotels, it attracted many high-profile visitors like Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor, who sought sun-soaked vacations. At its peak in the 1970s, Varosha saw around 20,000 tourists a day during the summer months, contributing significantly to the local economy.

However, everything changed in 1974 when a Turkish invasion of Cyprus led to the town’s isolation. Overnight, Varosha was sealed off, becoming a poignant symbol of the island’s political division. As the glamorous resort turned into a ghost town, it left behind around 39,000 residents who fled, abandoning their homes, shops, and hotels... The desolation became a snapshot of the sad history, frozen between its vibrant past and a miserable present.

Walking among the old half-ruined buildings and deserted streets filled us with a mix of curiosity and sorrow. The weight of history was palpable as we wandered through the remainings of what was once a thriving resort.

The Controversial Opening of Varosha

In October 2020, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus made the controversial decision to partially reopen Varosha. This move significant debate and evoked strong reactions from locals and international observers.

On one side, some viewed it as a potential boost for tourism, with hopes of revitalizing the area. According to preliminary estimates, tourism in Northern Cyprus could grow by 15-20% with renewed interest in Varosha.

Conversely, others considered this move a provocation, intensifying political tensions surrounding the island. Do not forget, that owners of some of these abandoned buildings are still alive: thousands of people were forced to leave their homes and businesses overnight and fled to the South, and they never had a chance to come back and to reinstate the rights for their property.

Our Journey to Varosha

Before embarking on our journey, we searched online for tips and advice. Many travelers recommended renting bicycles or scooters near the checkpoints, claiming it was a convenient way to reach Varosha. We were happy, and thought that getting to Varosha by bike is a wonderful idea.

We decided to use the checkpoint in Derenya (a village close to Paralimni in the Southern Cyprus), and left our rented car on the parking before we entered the checkpoint. We were 100 percent sure that we would just walk through the border and rent bicycles to reach Varosha in a few minutes. However, that was just a wishful thinking...

Upon our arrival near the checkpoints, we were disappointed to find that there were no bicycles at all. And have never been! Faced with the scorching sun, we began a challenging 5 km walk to Famagusta, where Varosha is located (it seemed we didnt't have another choice), and had a chance to observe the abandoned houses (located in the buffer zone) like this one.

However, luck was on our side when a kind local offered us a lift in his car. This small act of kindness significantly eased our journey and the guy brought us right to the heart of Famagusta, that we didn't plan to visit this time, to be honest. Nevertheless, we took this opportunity and explored the historical center, admiring beautiful architecture that tells its own story of resilience and survival.

That was a good side of our mistake: we had a chance to explore the historical part of Famagusta as well! This place worths a separate visit - maybe I will write a separate blog post about Famagusta and all other nice places to visit in the Northern Cyprus.

Wait, what about the bicycles I shown you earlier? This photo was taken when we were already in Varosha - apparently, you could rent a bike, yes, but only at the entrance of the abandoned town. How would you reach Varosha then? Learning on our mistakes, I would recommend either to purchase a local insurance for your rental car at the border and simply drive there, or to call a taxi.

Experiencing Varosha

After exploring Famagusta (a normal city where people live and work) walking towards Varosha was surreal. As we approached, the stark contrast between the lively city and the abandoned ghost town became even more pronounced. The old buildings stood tall as reminders of a forgotten era.

Strolling through the quiet streets of Varosha felt like stepping back in time. The silence was palpable, broken only by the occasional sounds of tourists capturing photos and reflecting on the site’s haunting beauty.

A deep sense of melancholy enveloped us as we passed crumbling structures and empty storefronts that had once been vibrant spots filled with laughter. It was a reminder of how quickly life can change, how moments of joy can slip away, leaving behind only the echoes of what once was.

One of the most striking features of Varosha is its stunning beach, a reminder of its former glory. Actually, the local unrecognised government re-opened it partially: installed a fex sunbeds and even a small cafe when tourists can grab a drink.

The area is undeniably beautiful, with its stunning landscapes and picturesque views, and the decision to re-open Varosha, and especially to re-open the beach is understandable, though, a quite controversial, considering the history of Varosha, which is steeped in tragedy and sorrow.

Reflections on Varosha's Legacy

Visiting Varosha left us with mixed feelings. On one hand, we felt honored to witness such a unique piece of history; on the other, our hearts ached for the lives disrupted when the town was sealed off... Varosha’s beauty is deeply intertwined with its tragic past, echoing the unresolved tensions between the two sides of Cyprus.

As we made our way back through the deserted streets, we thought of the divisions that have persisted through decades, reminding us that the effects of conflict extend far beyond immediate consequences, impacting generations.

Varosha stands as a powerful symbol of a divided nation—a vivid reminder of what was lost and what remains at stake.

Exploring Varosha proved to be both enlightening and sad. It is a testament to the complexities of Cyprus's history and invites deeper reflection on loss, resilience, and hope for the future. Do I recommend visiting this place? Yes, but not just to explore, but to engage with the history. Varosha is more than just a place—it's a space where history breathes, and silence speaks for itself.

As you plan your visit to Cyprus, consider adding Varosha to your itinerary. Prepare for an emotional journey as you step into the shadows of the past and embrace the lessons it holds.

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 I hope you like this post and that it inspires you to visit Varosha (and the beautiful divided island of Cyprus in general).

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